How to Glue 3D Printed PCTG Parts Together (Best Adhesives + What Actually Works)

If you’ve ever thought:

“Okay… my Pro PCTG print is done. Now, how do I glue these parts together?”

You’re not alone.

Pro PCTG is an awesome material for 3D printing because it’s tough, durable, and more forgiving than brittle plastics - especially for functional parts. But that same toughness can make people second-guess what adhesive to use when it’s time to assemble a multi-part model.

So we did what we always do: we tested it.

In this guide, we’ll break down the best adhesives for 3D-printed Pro PCTG, what works for large surface-area joints, what works for thin parts that flex, and how to achieve consistently strong results.

Quick Answer: Best Glue for 3D Printed PCTG (TL;DR)

If you want the short version:

✅ Best overall strength: Epoxy
✅ Fast and easy for rigid prints: Super glue (CA / cyanoacrylate)
✅ Closest to a “plastic weld”: PETG 3D-Gloop!
❌ Not recommended (in our test): E6000

If you’re building something that needs to survive real-world handling (tools, brackets, cosplay props, functional prototypes, etc.), epoxy is usually the best choice.

Why Pro PCTG Can Be Tricky to Glue (Compared to PLA)

Pro PCTG is tough. That’s one of the reasons we love it.

But compared to PLA, Pro PCTG parts are more likely to:

• flex slightly under load

• absorb impacts without cracking

• survive drops… while your glue joint takes the stress

That means adhesives that cure “glass hard” can sometimes fail in thin, twisty areas - even if they work great on big flat bonds.

The Adhesives We Tested on 3D Printed Pro PCTG

We tested four common adhesive options:

• E6000

• Epoxy

• Super glue (CA / cyanoacrylate)

• PETG 3D-Gloop!

Our simple shop test setup

We printed a cylinder with a flared base to create extra bonding surface area, glued the parts, clamped them, and let everything cure for 24 hours at room temperature.

This wasn’t a lab tensile test - just a real-world, practical comparison of what holds up when you actually try to assemble and stress a printed part.

Test Results: What Worked Best for Bonding PCTG

After curing:

• Epoxy, super glue, and PETG 3D-Gloop! held strongly and could not be pulled or twisted apart by hand

• E6000 was the only adhesive we tested that we could separate by hand after curing

Big takeaway:

If your joint has a good surface area and you can clamp properly, epoxy, CA glue, and PETG 3D-Gloop are all good options.

But when you move into thin parts, twisting, and repeated flexing, the differences matter more.

Best Practices: How to Get Stronger Glue Joints on Pro PCTG Prints

Before we get into which glue is “best,” here’s the truth:

Joint prep and fitment can matter just as much as adhesive choice.

For the strongest results on 3D printed Pro PCTG, do this every time:

1) Dry fit first

If the parts don’t mate cleanly, fix that first. Tight fit = stronger bond.

2) Scuff the surfaces

Light sanding (120–220 grit) gives adhesives something to bite into.

3) Clean with isopropyl alcohol (IPA)

Remove fingerprints, dust, oils, and residue. Let it fully dry.

4) Clamp firmly and evenly

Most adhesive failures happen because the joint wasn’t clamped well.

5) Let it fully cure

Even when a glue “sets” quickly, full strength often takes longer.

Best Glue for Pro PCTG: Pros, Cons, and When to Use Each

Below is the practical breakdown we’d give a friend if they asked which glue to buy.

1) Epoxy (Best Overall Adhesive for 3D Printed Pro PCTG)

Best for: functional parts, high-strength assemblies, parts that experience twisting/impact, cosplay props, “it can’t fail” projects

If you want the strongest, most reliable bond for PCTG, epoxy is usually the best choice.

It’s also more forgiving than super glue if your surfaces aren’t perfectly flat, because epoxy can fill small gaps while still curing strong.

Epoxy pros

• Excellent bond strength

• Handles stress, vibration, and impact better than most adhesives

• Works well even if the surfaces aren’t perfectly flat

Epoxy cons

• Requires mixing

• Can be messy

• Needs cure time

5-minute epoxy vs slow-set epoxy

• 5-minute epoxy is great when you need quick handling strength

• Slower-setting epoxy often develops a stronger final bond and gives you more time to align parts

If you can spare the time, letting epoxy cure 24 hours is one of the best things you can do for bond strength.

2) Super Glue (CA / Cyanoacrylate) (Fast and Easy)

Best for: rigid parts with good surface contact, quick assembly, large prints split into smaller sections

CA glue is a classic for a reason: it’s fast, cheap, and easy.

But here’s the tradeoff:

Super glue cures hard and brittle. That can be great for stiff parts, but if the joint sees flexing or twisting (especially with small contact areas), the bond can crack.

Super glue pros

• Fast cure

• Easy to apply

• Great for large flat joints and rigid assemblies

Super glue cons

• Can crack under flex/twist

• Not ideal for thin parts

• Doesn’t gap-fill well unless using gel CA

Pro tip for stronger CA glue joints

If you’re slicing a large model into multiple parts, add alignment pins/connectors during the cut (many slicers support this). It increases surface area, improves alignment, and dramatically strengthens the joint.

3) PETG 3D-Gloop! (Best “Plastic Weld” Style Adhesive)

Best for: weld-like bonding, flat surfaces, joints you can clamp tightly

PETG 3D-Gloop! is a specialty adhesive that behaves more like a solvent weld. It softens the plastic surface and fuses the parts together—similar in concept to PVC cement.

In our testing, it handled twisting better than super glue when parts were clamped properly.

3D-Gloop pros

• Creates a fused/welded-style bond

• Strong when the joint fits well and is clamped evenly

• Good for high-stress joints

3D-Gloop cons

• More expensive than most adhesives

• Requires good clamping and fit-up

Price + shelf life considerations

As of January 2026, a 120 mL jar of PETG 3D-Gloop! costs $34.99. It also advertises a shelf life of 90 days after first opening, which is worth considering if you only glue parts occasionally.

4) E6000 (Not Recommended for 3D Printed Pro PCTG)

In our cure-and-clamp test, E6000 was the only adhesive that we could separate by hand after curing.

While it’s popular for many other materials and projects, we don’t recommend it as a go-to adhesive for bonding 3D-printed Pro PCTG.

What Glue Should You Use for Your Pro PCTG Project?

Here’s the simplest decision guide:

• Use epoxy if you want the strongest bond and best long-term durability

• Use super glue (CA) if your parts are rigid and you want quick assembly

• Use PETG 3D-Gloop! if you want a weld-like bond and can clamp tightly

• Skip E6000 for PCTG bonding based on our testing

Final Tip: Joint Design Beats Glue Choice (Especially for Big Prints)

For large models, cosplay props, or anything that may flex:

A well-designed joint will outperform a “perfect glue” every time.

If possible, add:

• alignment pins

• dovetails

• keyed connectors

• lap joints

More contact area = stronger glue-up.

Safety Note

Always follow the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions and use adhesives in a well-ventilated area.